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 HOME ALL ABOUT WOOD White Pine Wood

White Pine Sample Box

great for box building

9 square foot bundle 3/8"
>all 5 1/2" wide, 4pc-30" 1-24", 2pc-12"-15" & 18" long

$24.50/bundle

--all clear 1 face--

click here for other white pine products

 

Eastern White Pine
click here for white pine craft wood instock

Uses:
Eastern White Pine is the most common craft wood in my area. It is relatively cheap and easily available, from very knotty to totally clear. For these reasons, eastern white is used extensively in all areas of woodworking, cabinets, scrollsaw & craft work, folk art and even wood turning for table legs. We make it into lumber, flooring and wall paneling. The native Indians used it for totem poles, today much of the lower grade material goes into pulp & paper and animal bedding, reserving the high grades for lumber.

Eastern White Pine Tree: Pinus strobus
This pine can be referred to as northern white pine, Weymouth pine or soft pine. It is a very large tree, for northern climates, often reaching 2'+ in diameter, although today much of the forest is second growth and thus smaller. It grows predominately on the central, eastern coast of N.America and across to the great lakes, covering much of land surrounding the lakes.

Wood Description:
The heartwood of the eastern white pine is pale brown, with occasional reddy brown streaks. The sap wood, which makes up most of the tree is a pale yellow/white colour. All eastern pine ages to a golden yellow colour with exposure to sunlight, in a fairly short time. It can have very large knots, that like to crack, very small tight knots, or no knots at all. The price will vary accordingly.

It is relatively stable, once dried properly, but because it is fairly porous, will cup if it is allowed to absorb moisture from a damp basement. For this reason, thin wood must be keep under weight until it is ready to use. It has some grain pattern but not as much as say, red oak. It is a relatively weak wood.

Weight: approximately 26 lbs/cu.ft.

Finishing:
Eastern white pine absorbs a stain very easily, and end grain will have a tendency to over absorb so sand finely. This presents no difficulties on small projects, thus its appeal as a craftwood BUT over large areas like for instance a wood floor it is very difficult to get uniform absorption of the stain across the entire floor... it tends to like to leave a lap line where you have stopped and started. Use a good quality stain, with fine pigment, find a method of application that allows quick application and consider using a wood conditioner as a pretreatment... maybe visit your local finishing expert first for additional advise..

Pine has a lot of resin, in pockets, that have a bad habit of bleeding out when you least expect it (especially in the lower quality wood), so... make sure you use a quality, oil based polyurethane for top coating. I would rarely use pine to paint over for this reason. The sap leaves a rusty brown stain in the paint, even when you take the time to seal the knots or pith pockets with shellac. Use basswood as a great paint grade alternative.

I understand that some special water based products have been designed specifically to seal pine, but Agway ask! My experience with them has not been so great.

Machining:
It is extremely easy to cut with both hand and machine tools. It is "kind" to all cutting edges and can be nailed without predrilling. Sanding is easy, but you must work your way down the grit ladder. It cuts easily with a scrollsaw, but remember that it is not very strong, so don't leave little strips going across the grain or they'll break.

When routing an edge, watch for tear out. It can tend to splinter, so make sure you are going in the right direction.... then you should have no problem. It glues easily with regular glues. (make sure you remove squeeze out before it dries)

 


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theWoodbox.com Jan 2007